Your shirt is gay.
The vintage tee shirts that shaped, defined, and memorialized queer history.
Donned by the masses, relegated to causal wear, and often not given much thought, the humble tee shirt is an underutilized form of resistance each of us can harness in our daily lives. Queer activists of decades past understood the power of the silkscreen — sending signals to those in the know as well as using it’s accessibility to demonstrate to society at large.
The shirts that have survived the test of time provide a blueprint — a cotton web of queer businesses, activist groups, protests, gatherings, publications, and imagery that serve as a way to contextualize and understand where we’ve been, how we’ve gotten here, and tools we can use to move forward.
I highly suggest exploring the entire archive of gay tee shirts housed on the Wearing Gay History website. Without this archival work, this essay would not have been possible.
New Worlds Bookstore
Opening in 1974, New Worlds Bookstore in Massachusetts was one of the earliest feminist bookstores in the United States. In addition to books they sold pamphlets (what we now refer to as zines), journals, cards, posters, tee shirts, records, and “non-sexist children’s literature”. The small publications they carried commented on a variety of topics including Black feminism, non-traditional family units, and queer issues. Fostered by the growing “Women in Print” movement of Second Wave feminism, they became a hot spot for political organization and social discussion.
Bread and Roses Restaurant
Two blocks down the street from New Worlds, there was a different flavor of revolution cooking. In 1975 Bread and Roses restaurant, built by an all female team of architects, lawyers, carpenters and investors, welcomed women to dine. The restaurant offered a safe space for women to meet, organize, share art, and simply dine alone without harassment — a novel concept at the time. Activism was built into the structure of the business, with donations for feminist causes being collected instead of tips and staff being paid twice the minimum wage.
Lammas Bookstore
Lammas. More than a bookstore. A movement — read the sign hanging behind the cash register of the Washington DC lesbian bookshop. Starting it’s life as a female focused jewelry and craft shop, Lammas bloomed into a thriving independent bookstore focusing on literature by and for women. Lesbians flocked to the only dedicated shop in the city — planning demonstrations, attending workshops, and enjoying art in the company of each other.
Susanna Sturgis writes about her experience working as the book buyer for Lammas on her blog The T-Shirt Chronicles — where she explores her expansive collection of 190 vintage tee shirts covering topics of feminism, lesbian community, demonstrations and more!
Charis Books and More
Now one of the oldest feminist bookstores in the country, Charis Books and More, did not start out with an intentional identification as a space that fostered queer ideology. Founded by a pair of female activists who were involved in a radical nondenominational Christian group called Young Life, the store aimed to provide the local Atlanta community a space where anyone could explore radical social ideals.
The bookshop carried literature that explored Christian and Eastern theology, anti-racist/sexist children’s books, local authors, as well as books by and for women. Members of the local queer community began frequenting the shop, with a desire to read books that covered gay topics. As the demand grew, Charis transformed into a space run almost exclusively by lesbians, focusing it’s attention on feminist texts and advocating for the queer community.
NC Lesbian and Gay Pride March 1989
“I go to Boston to come out, you go to Greensboro. Everybody to somewhere for liberation, it seems. Now if we’d all stay put, wouldn’t that be the revolution?” - Allan Troxler in a letter to Jim Baxter circa 1960s.
Contrary to what some city dwellers may believe, queer liberation does not exist exclusively in major cities that dot the Eastern and Western coasts of the United States — and it certainly does not stop at the Mason Dixon line. In June of 1989, North Carolina would host its own Pride March in the capitol city of Raleigh, gathering gays from around the state to participate in the 20th anniversary of Stonewall. It was the eighth year of Pride events happening in North Carolina, which began in 1981 as a reaction to the murder of Ronald “Sonny” Antonevitch at Little River — a local swimming hole in Durham.
The 1989 Pride was a week long celebration, hosting events across the state that included a gala, a carnival that raised money for the WNC AIDS project, dances, a comedy show, potlucks/picnics, a pep rally with a kazoo band, gay prom, speakers and storytellers, music, poetry readings, and a legislative writing party.
1990 National Bisexual Conference
Educate, Advocate, Agitate, and Celebrate. It’s July 1990, and over 450 people have gathered in San Francisco for the first National Bisexual Conference. The conference, dubbed a “non-violent Stonewall” for the bi community, was aimed at tackling the rampant biphobia and bi erasure that exists not only in the straight world, but also in queer spaces.
Many bisexuals of the time did not feel comfortable “coming out” in any capacity and identified as purely gay or lesbian — due to feeling shamed by their queer monosexual counterparts for having “heterosexual privilege”. The conference hosted workshops that dealt with feminism, people of color, relationships, androgyny, AIDS, spirituality, sexuality and writing and publishing.
“It is realistic to be confused if you live in a world that says that you do not exist. Confusion is an appropriate response to the gay and lesbian community telling you that your heterosexual feelings are just an indication of your internalized homophobia; of the straight community telling you that, you're just a little strange and need to get rid of your homosexual feelings.” - David Lourea, 1990.
Action = Life, Silence = Death
Perhaps one of the most recognizable symbols of the AIDS epidemic, the pink triangle was first used in 1930s Nazi Germany to distinguish queer prisoners inside of concentration camps. Activists during the 1970s began reclaiming the symbol with intent to bring awareness of it’s use by the Nazi party after concentration camp survivor Heinz Henger’s memoir The Men with the Pink Triangle brought it’s use to the public’s attention.
It’s association with the AIDS epidemic began in 1985, when a six person artist collective began wheatpasting their design around NYC. The poster, which included a pink triangle over a black background along with text that read Silence = Death, was soon adopted by ACT UP, one of the major advocate groups for AIDS patients, and became the central image for their campaign.
The National Gay Task Force
Formed in 1973 The National Gay Task Force, now The National LGBTQ Task Force, was formed by activists who “saw a need for a powerful, unified, and organized voice in the burgeoning gay rights movements.” The Task Force has scored major victories over it’s tenure including removing “Homosexuality” from the DSM, being the first group of gay activists to meet at the White House to discuss queer rights, testifying to congress about the lack of federal response to AIDS, and leading marches on Washington to petition queer rights, including the 1993 March on Washington.
The 1993 March on Washington
On April 25th 1993, it’s estimated that nearly one million organizers marched on Washington to call attention to issues facing the queer community across the nation. The march, which took nearly two years to plan, began at noon and included people from all over the country — young, old, and of every color — waving rainbow flags, banners, signs, and chanting. The AIDS quilt was on display at the Washington Monument, and speakers rallied the crowd, criticizing Bill Clinton’s lack of response to the epidemic. Hundreds of marchers also participated in a seven minute “die-in” — a somber protest and memorial for those who had been lost to AIDS.
The Lesbian Avengers
"LESBIANS! DYKES! GAY WOMEN!" (...) "We're wasting our lives being careful. Imagine what your life could be. Aren't you ready to make it happen?" - The Lesbian Avengers first call to action, circa 1990s.
In 1992, six lesbians residing in NYC decided it was time to take to the streets. Formed out of a direct response to a local school board petitioning against queer children’s books such as Heather Has Two Mommies, Daddy's Roommate, and Gloria Goes to Gay Pride, they showed up at a Queens school with an all female marching band wearing tee shirts that read “I was a lesbian child.”
For the Lesbian Avengers, humor was an emotion that could be effectively harnessed in their quest for liberation. They handed out chocolate kisses on Valentines Day with an attached message that read, “You’ve just been kissed by a Lesbian.” They dispatched playfully designed flyers throughout the city all emblazoned with the motto “We Recruit”. And they did. Within a few years, the Avenger’s membership grew to more than 50 nationwide chapters, they created a public access show called Dyke TV, and landed covers on Vanity Fair and Time.
Olivia Records
Transgender woman Sandy Stone found herself in a dangerous predicament after being welcomed into lesbian-feminist label Olivia Records in 1974. Stone, who worked as a sound engineer for Olivia, had a great deal of experience in the industry, working with major label artists like Jimi Hendrix prior to her transition. Living together in shared housing, members of Olivia Records worked as a collective — one that did not allow any men to enter their spaces. Members of Olivia had no problem with Stone being trans, and did not foresee any backlash to her inclusion within the collective.
However, this was not the case for all cis women working within the lesbian-separatist circle. Once transphobic members of the movement heard word of Stone’s involvement in Olivia Records, she began receiving hate mail and death threats. The members of the label met with the offending parties, trying to shape their anger into acceptance, but ultimately failed. Sandy, citing a growing rate of hateful vitriol, ended up resigning from Olivia Records.
The Michigan Womyn’s Music Festival
Transphobic rhetoric was still alive and well within the lesbian-feminist movement of the 1990s. Michigan Womyn’s Music Festival, which had been in operation since 1976, infamously excluded the inclusion of trans women within it’s “womyn-born womyn” only policy. Even so, this was not the dominate narrative with most of the festival attendees — three-quarters of whom wanted to see the inclusion of transgender women within the space.
The battle for trans inclusion came to a head in 1994, when the Lesbian Avengers personally escorted a group of trans women who had been camped outside of the festival — and included prominent trans activist voices like Leslie Feinberg — safely into the grounds. The group was welcomed by attendees with open arms, and resulted in Leslie delivering a speech calling for unity between non-trans and trans lesbians.
Virginia Woolf
Beginning in the 1970s, Virginia Woolf’s work started to be re-examined as queer. Despite being married, Woolf had several close relationships with women over her lifetime, with her novel Orlando inspired by her relationship with Vita Sackville-West. Wearing a tee shirt with Virginia Woolf would be a signal to other women in the know, that you too were an appreciator of subversive lesbian literature.
Lead with the heart
Second Wave feminism of the 1970s focused heavily on sexual education around the vulva. Feminist advocacy groups like the Boston Women’s Health Collective armed vulva owners with a hand mirror, encouraging them to look at their own genitals for the first time, aiding in an exploration of pleasure and an expansion of self.
Lesbianism and Witchcraft
Going back as far as Magic itself, lesbianism and witchcraft have been linked as a way to demonized women who participated outside of social norms. The burgeoning lesbian network of the 1970s took this association and had fun with it. The three witches within the design of the tee likely represent the triple goddess of Neopaganism — the Maiden, Mother, and Crone, who symbolize heaven, earth, and the underworld.
An army of lovers shall not fail.
“My voice rings down through thousands of years
To coil around your body and give you strength,
You who have wept in direct sunlight,
Who have hungered in invisible chains,
Tremble to the cadence of my legacy:
An army of lovers shall not fail.” - Rita Mae Brown
First published in Brown’s 1971 poetry book The Hand That The Cradle Rocks, the ending line of Sappho’s Reply became a rallying cry for queer liberation, and was widely adopted by gay activists across the country. The imagery of the queer warrior is further represented in the tee shirt through the labrys symbol — a double headed ax that drew inspiration from the Amazons within Greek mythology — a frequently referenced group within the lesbian movement of the time.
Persephone Press
Beginning in 1976 as Pomegranate Productions, lesbian run Persephone Press of Watertown, Massachusetts was a publishing company that sold “crucial, path-breaking” books. Embracing an anthology format, they inspired women writers to contribute the stories of their lives, finding camaraderie through shared experiences. The publications combined poetry, short stories, and essays that drew parallels between lesbian writers from across the United States.
Keep the feds out of our beds
The Defense of Marriage Act of 1996, which defined marriage as the union of a man and a woman at the federal level, imposed serious limits on what benefits same sex couples could receive. Legally they could not access insurance benefits, social security, immigration assistance, joint bankruptcy/tax returns, as well as financial aid that was granted to their straight counterparts. In short, the feds were linking matters of the bedroom to civil rights.
We are here!
It’s a sweltering 107 degree day in June 1980, and a group of over 700 have gathered for the first pride hosted in Phoenix. Their aim is simple, but not without power, We Are Here.
Terminate homophobia not employees
Prior to 1973, there was no protection at the state level from being fired for being queer, in fact, it was a common occurrence to lose your job if you were suspected of being homosexual. Federal employees’ sexual orientation was seen as a security risk, out gays could not join the military, and many queer Americans lived in fear of termination if found out.
Every kiss is a revolution.
Kiss-ins have been a tactic used to demonstrate queer resistance for decades. From commemorating the first anniversary of Stonewall, protesting the lack of inclusion of female artists at the LA County Museum of Arts, to bringing attention to the AIDS crisis via ACT UP’s organization tactics, a queer kiss is a significant act of solidarity, protest, and love.
Feeling inspired to don your own gay shirt?
Don’t hop on the internet and order some landfill fodder to your door! — Unless it’s vintage of course ;) Visit your local thrift store and pickup a new-to-you tee and spin up your own creation. Screen print, puffy paint, appliqué, or marker can be the tool that helps get your message to the world.
Like your vintage with a side of history? Explore more essays…
Sources:
"Bread for all, and the roses too": Political slogan turned feminist restaurant
Where a table for one was a right to be won
Fading Places: The closing of a women’s haven leaves the lesbian community short on institutions.
Atlanta's Charis Books and More: Histories of a Feminist Space
The Front Page (Raleigh) - June 20 1989
Bay Area Reporter on first US national bisexual conference
From 1973 to 2023: 50 Years of Task Force Activism, Advocacy, and Organizing for LGBTQ Liberation
March on Washington for Lesbian, Gay and Bi Equal Rights and Liberation
Lesbian Avengers, An Incomplete History...
Frustrated by society's erasure, the Lesbian Avengers fought back
The dark history of ‘Witch’ as a weapon against LGBTQ+ women
Guides Same Practice, Same Meaning(s)? Vaginal Self-Exam in the 1970s and Today
Rita Mae Brown – “Sappho’s Reply”
An early lesbian flag and symbolism
A Brief History of Civil Rights in the United States: The 1990s, "Don't Ask, Don't Tell," and DOMA
From the archives: Phoenix LGBTQ pride and protests through the years
LGBTQ employment discrimination in the United States
Making Out, Making Change: The History of Queer Kiss-Ins
How a feminist, lesbian music collective powerfully defended trans rights in 1970s Los Angeles
Kari, thank you for bringing this collection to light for your readers. With the threat of gay rights being stripped away it is more important than ever to remind people that we have been through these battles before and won.💕
Oh my god, I cannot wait to dig into these links! Ty ty, always learn so much and walk away after reading your pieces with a feeling of hope and joy. We are HERE! Also omg lesbian avengers are SO cool, incredible